Method of making turned welt-shoes.



No. 744,588. r PATENTED NOV. 17, 1903.

M. J. MOLONEY.

METHOD OF MAKING TURNED WELT SHOES.

APPLICATION rILnn D30. 18, 1902..

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'PATENTED Nov. 17, M. J. MOLONEY. METHOD OF MAKING TURNED WELT SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED DEO.18. 1902.

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No. 744,588 PATENTBD NOV. 17, 1903.

M. J. MOLONEY. METHOD OF MAKING TURNED WELT SHOES. APPLICATION FILED DEC. 18, 1902.

' 4 SHEETS-SHEET a.

N0 MODEL.

m: NORms PETEHS co., pnoruumo WASHINGTON, u. c.

P-ATENTED NOV. 17

M. J. MOLONEY. I METHOD OF MAKING TURNED WELT SHOES.

APPLIGATION FILED DEQ. 18 1902. I

4 SHBETSSHEET 4.

N0 MODEL.

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UNITED STATES Patented November 17, icon.

PATENT OFFICE.

MICHAEL JfMOLONEY, OF ROCHESTER, NEW YORK.

METHOD OF MAKING TURNED WELT-SHOES.

d November 17, 1903.

Application filed December 18, 1902. Serial No; 135,826. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ll/IICHAEL J. MoLoNEY,

' a citizen of the United States, residing at sole.

Rochester, in the county of Monroe and State of New York, have invented new and useful Improvements in Methods of Making Turned WV elt-Shoes, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to improvementsin the method of making turned welt-shoes; and the object of my invention is to simplify and cheapen the construction of welt-shoes produced by well-known methods.

By the use of my improved method'of p'ro ducing turned welt-shoes I am enabledto perform all the steps in the production of a welt-shoe by unskilled laborwith the excep tion of theinseaming'a'nd' lasting, whereas'in the methods heretofore used a number of steps necessary to produce the shoe must be performed by skilled labor. Furthermore, there are fewer operations necessary for the production of a welt-shoe by my hereinafterdescribed method than are necessary to produce the welt-shoe by the methods heretofore employed.

1n the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is a perspective view of a welt shoe, partly broken away, showing therelative positions and appearance of the two soles, the welt, and the upper after the shoe is completed. Fig.

' 2 illustrates the first step in my method, showin g the inner and outer soles connected together beforethe upper is attached thereto! Fig. 3 is an illustration of the second step in my method, showing the lasting of the inner and outer soles and the uppertoget-her and the inseaming of the upper to the inner Fig. 4 is a perspective view of the first step-inmy method and in which the welt is made to extend around the heel instead of stopping in front of the heel, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2. Fig. 5 is a perspective view showing the first step of my method when the welt consists of the separate strip or piece,

the two soles being 'connected'before the upper is. inseamed thereto the same as in respect to Figs. 1, 2, 3, and 4. Fig. 6 is a sectional view showing the construction of Fig. 5 in the lasting position in connection with the upper and the upper inseamed to the inner sole. Fig. 7 is a perspective view of the first step of my method for the production of what is known in the trade as a fudge or feather edge finish, the inner and outer soles being connected before the upper is inseamed thereto the same as in the previously described figures. Fig. Sis a'view similar to I Figs. 3 and 6, showing the inner and outer soles'and the upper in their lasting positions "for producing the fudge or feather edge and,

the upper inseamedto the inner sole. Fig.

9 is a perspective view of an inner and an outer sole connected as in the first step of my 7 method and showing the outer sole extending. .over the ball of the shoeandstopping in Fig. 10 is .a-longitudinal sectional View of. a finished front of the heel portion thereof.

shoe produced according to my method and in which the outer sole is arranged as shown .in Fig. 9.

In carrying out my method of producing a turned welt-shoe the inner sole 1 is first attached to the outer sole 2 in any desired manner, but preferably by stitching, as shown at 3, As here shown, the stitching or other connecting means passes through the welt 4, which is carried by the insole 1, and also through the outer sole 2, as clearly shown.

The neict step is the placing of the connected inner and outer soles inside out upon the last 5, asillustrated in Fig. 3, and they are there held in theusual manner by means of suitable nails or tacks 6. I lasted inside out, as shown, and held by the same nails or tacks 6. The upper is then inseamed to the inner sole at the point "7. Thus far'the two connected soles and the upper are inside out. The last 5 is then removed in the usual way after the projecting edge of the upper has been trimmed 0E, and the shoe is then turned right side out. The connection of the inner and outer soles and the inseaming of the upper 'ha ving stopped in front of the heel portion, the heel portion of the upper is then attached between the inner and outer soles by tacking the inwardlyprojecting portion of-the upper to the heel portion of the insole in the usual way, and

the shoe is then completed as-in the ordinary process.

It will be observed that in producing a The upper is then- IOO insole to conform and fit the heel of the last to enable me to nail the seat, and thereby effect a good job.

hen my improved method is used for an infant shoe, if desired the insole can be provided with a welt extending around the heel portion, as shown in Fig. 4 and, if desired, a light wedge 9 to form the heel inserted and the whole stitched or otherwise connected together. In this instance the upper is inseamed to the inner sole around the heel portion as well as the shank and fore parts.

Instead of forming the welt a as a part integral with the insole, as shown in Figs. 1, 2, 3, and 4, it may be formed as a separate piece 10, as shown in Fig. 5, and stitched or otherwise connected to the insole. The welt then serves to connect the inner and outer soles by the stitching or other connecting devices 12, the same as in respect to the preceding figures of the drawings.

As shown in Figs. 3 and 6, the inner and outer soles are turned around the last, as shown, for the purpose of preventing any appreciable variation in the size of the shoe after it is turned right side out.

My method is also Well adapted in producing what is known as fudge or feather edge finish, and this is illustrated in Figs. 7 and 8. In this instance the edge of the outer sole 2 is beveled away, as shown at 14, and the inner and outer soles are connected at the point 15 by stitching and otherwise. In this instance a leaf 17 is preferably channeled in the outer sole for the purpose of being cemented over the connecting-stitches for the purpose of hiding them after the shoe is finished. This is also preferably true in respect to the construction shown in Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 and is shown at 17 in Figs. 1 and 3. lVhile I prefer to form these leaves 16 and 17, they may be omitted and the stitching passed entirely through the outer sole without in any manner affecting or departing from my invention.

My method of producing a turned welt-shoe is also adapted to be used when it is desired to have the outer sole extend only to the front part of the shank and to cover only the fore part of the shoe, as shown in Figs. 9 and 10. In this instance a shank-piece 20 is inserted, as shown in Fig. 10.

My method has many advantages over the methods heretofore used for producing a weltshoe, in which instances the upper is attached to the inner sole before the outersole is placed in position and connected to the welt. It enables me to use a thinner and when desired an inferior quality of material for the inner sole without afiecting the wear of the shoe,

for the reason that the outer sole being first connected to the inner sole stiifens and strengthens the inner sole and prevents it and the between substance from giving in the inseaming or in the turning, which holds the soles and the seam to their original pattern and original shape after it is turned right side out, which makes it fit the original last and prevents any appreciable variation in the size after it is turned right side out and enables the manufacturer using myimproved method to produce shoes very exact and uniform in size, enables the seam to be carried in close to the shank, and to give the effect of an ordinary turned shoe with all the wearing qualities of a welt-shoe, because the outer sole is attached to the inner sole before the upper is connected thereto. The turning of the attached inner and outer soles gives flexibility to the outer as well as to the inner sole and a uniform flexibility to both soles. Furthermore, the manufacturer is enabled to effect a great saving in the matter of skilled labor as compared with that required for the production of welt-shoes by the ordinary method, and fewer operations are necessary to co1nplete the shoe by my method than are necessaryto produce a welt-shoe by the present known method.

Preferably the inner and outer soles in my method are cemented together to hold them in their proper and relatively exact position, which can be done by unskilled labor, and after which the inner and outer soles are sewed together by unskilled labor.

In the production of welt-shoes by the present known methods it is necessary to use a good quality and a relatively stout inner sole in order to keep the shoe from losing its shape in the inseaming of the upper thereto. By my method a thin and, if desired, inferior quality inner sole can be used, for the reason that the outersole is connected thereto before the inseaming operation, and the inner sole therefore receives in effect the combined strength of the inner and the outer sole, and it is found in practice that the shape is absolutely unaffected in the inseaming and turnin g operation.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. An improved method of producing a turned weltshoe, which consists in first pro viding an inner sole with a projecting welt portion and an outer sole extending under said welt portion; second, securing said soles together; third, lasting the connected soles and the upper inside out; fourth, inseaming said upper to the inner sole only, and then turning the sole and upper right side out.

2. The methodof producing a turned weltshoe which consists in providing an inner sole with a welt, connecting an outer sole to the said welt of the inner sole, then lasting the inner and outer soles and the upper inside out, then connecting the upper to the inner sole, and then turning the upper, the inner and the outersoles right side out.

3. An improved method of producing a turned Welt-shoe which consists in first providing an inner sole with a welt and an outer sole of a size to extend under said welt; second, sewing the soles together through said Welt of the inner sole; third, lasting the conto nected soles and an upper inside out; fourth,

sewing the upper to the inner sole only at a point inside of said welt, and turning the soles and upper right side out.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand in the presence of two subscribing 15 witnesses.

MICHAEL J. MOLONEY. WVitnesses:

- J OHN L. FLETCHER,

A. S. PATTISON. 

